This is no simple apéritif tipple, the cool, dry, low-cropping 2005 season has yielded a full-bodied, full-throttle sparkling white wine of sumptuous generosity, enduring persistence and creamy, silky mouth feel. There is real power and generosity on display here – think fig, grilled pineapple, honey on toast, even notes of truffle. Its true pedigree is confirmed in that it retains impeccable control and determination at every moment of this captivating fanfare. Take (another) bow, Nat Fryar. For the record, 51% chardonnay and 49% pinot noir with select barrel fermentation (40%) and 7.1g/L residual sugar. $44 at Discount Wines.