Jansz Tasmania Vintage Cuvée

On the weight of evidence of recent tastings, 2008 was an excellent season for sparkling in Tasmania. Surprising, because it was not only hot and dry but also the state’s highest yielding vintage yet. Champagne yields huge volumes, so perhaps there’s something in that? Jansz builds biscuity, bready complexity and silky, buttery seamlessness by fermenting half in old barrels, with lees stirring every few weeks. Depth of complexity is beautifully contrasted with freshness of stone fruits with hints of anise and honey. $33 at Kemenys.