Jean-Louis Chave Selection Côtes-du-Rhône Mon Coeur

JL Chave is a legend of the Rhône and a master of whole bunch fermentation to draw out the exotic nuances of top class fruit. His top cuvées land at scary prices, but this bargain grenache syrah blend has clearly learnt some of the same tricks. It’s a captivatingly spicy style, with exotic pipesmoke, dried flower and savoury herb nuances over a core of dark berry fruits and high cocoa dark chocolate, finished impeccably with a mouth-coating layer of beautifully fine, chalky tannins. $30 at Edinburgh Cellars.