Kilikanoon Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling

It is exceedingly rare for any wine at this price to exemplify such pristine, crystalline structure, seamless line and undeterred persistence. When the wines of the double-blind tasting were unveiled, I assumed this must be the (significantly higher priced) Mort’s Reserve Riesling, not the entry model that you can snare for just $16 (Edinburgh Cellars). This is a brilliantly mineral wine of pure precision of crunchy granny smith apple, understated lime juice and gorgeous nuances of apple blossom. Its undercurrent of chalky minerality screams of Watervale.