Kooyong Estate Beurrot Pinot Gris

A magnificent pinot gris, but more than that, a showpiece for both immaculate fruit in a great vintage and exceedingly skilful winemaking. Wild fermented and aged on lees in old French barrels, it’s delightfully reductive, filled with precise gunpowder and struck flint notes against a backdrop of crunchy pear and apple. A compact core of lemon zest carries long and linear on a finish driven by tightly contained acid structure and beautifully textural mouth feel. $24 at Edinburgh Cellars (2011), $25 at Corkscrew Cellars (2012).