Kooyong Estate Single Vineyard Faultline Chardonnay

True to the elegance and structure of the cool 2011 season, this is a particularly long-lived rendition of Kooyong’s tiny 0.90ha Faultline patch. Complex struck match and gunpowder notes hover over grapefruit blossom fragrance and tightly focused lemon zest fruit. It’s poised and super tight, suspended on a highwire of beautifully focused acidity that draws the finish into a streamlined arrowhead of linear energy and pristine texture. $58 at World Wine and Wine Style.