I was never going to feature Krug 1998 in Wine Taste. Not that it isn’t superior to the recently launched 2000 but because if you’re going to bang $500 on a bottle of Krug, you must hunt down the 1996. Then, out of nowhere, Vintage Cellars advertised the 1998 for $300 (for the next three days). Vintage Krug at the price of non-vintage – preposterous! The second vintage in history in which chardonnay has led, making this a Krug of sensational fruit velocity and power, astonishing complexity, yet utter control and agility. It froths with whitewash of mouthfilling, salty minerality, lingering and splashing long and strong. If you’ve always wished, now is your moment.