Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay

“You’ve got to be very fussy,” is Michael Brajkovich’s mantra, as he explains his regime of assessing every new barrel each year to determine which to buy again next year. It’s an attention to detail that extends to everything here, as evidenced in the immense definition and structural focus of this wine. Tightly honed citrus zest, grapefruit and white peach of great finesse meet notes of flint and gunpowder, pulling into an exciting focus of textural mouthfeel and outstanding persistence. One of the greats. $36 at Discount Wines.