As Kumeu’s vines have gained maturity, there’s been a progressive backing-off of sweetness, to about two-thirds of what it once was, a refreshing trend in a country notorious for producing sweet gris. The focus here is on texture, which maker Michael Brajkovich likens to pinot noir, pointing out that the two are essentially the same grape, apart from a mutation which takes out the colour. The result is a pure, fresh and focused gris, ready for Asian cuisine action. Zesty lemon fruit and classic fresh pear flavours are underlined by a clean, crisp acid line, textural mouthfeel and soft sweetness.