I’ve learnt more about New Zealand chardonnay over the past decade from Kumeu River winemaker Michael Brajkovich than anyone else, and a recent visit revealed that the learning curve at this celebrated estate is as steep as ever. Clever techniques of lees ageing in tank, of pressing for both finesse and tannin texture and of wild yeast fermentation filter right down to the bargain-priced baby of the estate. Delightfully textured and beautifully honed acidity provides line and persistence to a focused fruit profile of peach and fig flavours. This is a great vintage for the best value NZ chardonnay on the shelves. $19 at Cracka, NZ Wine Online and Dan’s.