Lakes’ Folly Cabernets

Remarkable, first in that this is a 2012 Hunter red and second in that it’s good. Very good. It rained so much during vintage that Lake’s Folly harvested no shiraz, only half its usual crop of merlot and a low yield of cabernet. The result is a production of just 2,000 dozen, half the usual volume, a blend of more cabernet than usual (83%), with just 9% petit verdot and 8% merlot. Maker Rod Kempe rates this as a lesser vintage, comparing it with the lighter 1980s styles. He’s characteristically humble – this ethereal, pretty and elegant blend is a credit to him. Rose petal fragrance and understated redcurrant and blackcurrant fruit are laced with notes of tobacco, cedar and subtle dark chocolate oak, supported by finely structured tannins. A vintage of purity, persistence and graceful character. Best price direct.