Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignée Premier Cru Extra Brut

This wine is a paradox of the highest order, a salute to the genius of its maker and the depth of its old-vine sources. How a 100% Côte des Blancs rosé from an elegant east-facing Vertus site can land mid-way between a graceful champagne rosé and an expressive red cherry pinot noir is truly astounding. Larmandier set out to make ‘a rosé, not a white champagne with colour’, marrying the power of pinot noir with the elegance of the village and, goodness, has he done it! A profoundly vinous champagne of full crimson-red hue, with a breathtaking display of gorgeous rose petals, understated black cherries, raspberries and strawberries. Minerality of mouth-filling dimensions surges and froths, charged with acidity both tense and refined. An exceptional finish upholds benchmark rose petal freshness at every instant. It’s as special as it is inimitable. Drink it young and fresh. $114 at Barrique.