Leasingham Classic Clare Riesling

2005 CC has been a benchmark Clare riesling from day one, and I have spent the past five years puzzling over why it didn’t sell out overnight. It’s now one of the finest mature wines to unscrew for the summer of riesling, having built layers of butterscotch and roast cashew nuts while maintaining a lively core of lemon zest. Length, concentration and line are epic, surging confidently through a finish that maintains stunning poise and purity at every instant. $33 at Dan’s.