Celebrating their thirtieth birthday in time for the release of this wine next month, Lenton Brae’s estate grown Wilyabrup cabernet sauvignon vines have enjoyed a new pruning regime, making for richer, riper and less angular and austere character. The result is a wine that encapsulates the poise and definition of this outstanding vintage, in classic Margaret River signature gravel and cocoa characters, underlining crunchy red- and blackcurrant fruit, tweaked with a touch of merlot and petit verdot. Tannins are magnificently structured, fine and eminently gravelly. There is energy and long-term stamina here, yet at the same time a restraint that reflects the vintage, with an interplay of acid and tannin that promises great things. $50 at Prince Wine Store.