Leonay’s philosophy of purity, elegance and longevity is exemplified in 2012. Sourced from the same south facing block as 2011, the gloriously consistent and mild 2012 season has given birth to an introspective wine, coiled up tight, slowly unravelling to reveal understated lemon and lime pulp and focused granny smith apple fruit of considerable depth, blossoming in time into fragrant lime blossom. This is a Leonay set apart by its definitive Watervale personality, defined by a deep and ever-present undercurrent that ripples with fine, chalky minerality, carrying the wine long into the finish. A classically steely Leonay, built for the cellar. $31 at Prince and Dan’s.