Leo Buring Leonay DW Q18 Riesling

Leonay 2013 hails from the same vineyard as the 2011 and 2012, the highest vineyard in Watervale, planted in the 1950s on a hilltop of thin topsoils over limestone and shale. It’s a wine of wonderful stony, chalky mineral texture, lifted by pretty aromas of lemon and lime blossom and pink lady apple. A core of lively lemon and lime zest and red apple fill out a chiselled and structured palate, at once immediately approachable and at the same time confidently enduring. A touch (4g/L) of residual sugar builds texture and longevity rather than sweetness. $31 at Dan Murphy’s.