Lilbert Fils Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut

The Lilbert family have been champagne growers since 1746 and today Georges Lilbert produces just 30 000 bottles of blanc de blancs from 3.5 hectares spread across 15 low-yielding plots, largely in the grand crus of Chouilly, Oiry and, most of all, Cramant. These are high-strung, structured wines that are matured for at least five years before release and appreciate much longer to show at their best. True to the tension of Lilbert, this is a taut and honed blanc de blancs of crunchy lemon zest fruit, firm, fine structure and youthful grip. Value for money in ageworthy grand cru blanc de blancs. $67 at Ross Duke Wine Company.