They say it takes a great vintage to weed out the poor vineyards and winemakers, but only a tough season can truly define the greats. Crucially, definitively – indeed surprisingly for a vineyard at 500m altitude in a vintage as uncharacteristically cool as 2011 – this cabernet is ripe. Its light to medium purple hue is pale by the standards of this vineyard, yet true to the season. Crunchy black- and redcurrants are on show, edged with blackcurrant bud, green capsicum and leaf. The palate rides a taut backbone of cool vintage, high altitude acidity, supported by subtle dark chocolate and coffee oak. Fruit-focused tannins are finely structured, well matched to the gentle demeanour of the vintage, yet with a presence and command that promise confidence in the cellar. As always, it’s too young on release and screams out for a vigorous decant. $10.50 direct.