This goes down among the highest scores I’ve ever thrown at a wine of this price, and it’s as low as $38 duty free (Downtown Duty Free, Sydney Duty Free and First Tax Duty Free). Never have I seen Morris Grand as magnificent as it looks right now, with a depth of colour and flavour that leaves even the rare muscats of lesser producers for dead. At an average of fifteen years of age it’s almost black, and loaded with a delightful array of black things: pitch, liquorice and high cocoa dark chocolate. The palate is phenomenally concentrated yet not bracing, monumentally intense yet lively and poised, viscous yet fresh, with a never-ending finish.