Rumour has it that Morris is privileged to the largest reserves of old Tokay and Muscat in the country, and a recent poke through its grand barrel shed reveals a heritage like I have seen nowhere in the world. The price at which you and I can procure a bottle of this heritage is laughable, making Morris’ twenty-year-old rare as affordable as the grand tokays of many other houses. In a 500mL bottle (most rares are sold in 375s) for $57 at Dan’s, this remains one of the undiscovered treasures of the wine world. Its colour is immense, black, with barely a rim. It’s laced with raisins, dried apricots, white fruitcake and gorgeous savoury spice of immense persistence, with a backdrop of lively acidity perfectly offset by honeyed sweetness, wonderfully seamless and balanced.