Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling

Mount Horrocks is a Clare riesling that appreciates bottle age more than most, and 2013 especially so. An axis or razor-sharp acidity intersects a bolt of phenolic grip, making this a tautly honed and firmly structured Mount Horrocks of drying mouth feel and textural firmness. It carries impressive restraint of lime zest character and notes of golden delicious apple, which persevere with considerable energy. $26 at United Cellars.