Mount Majura Vineyard Riesling

The cool 2011 season did wonderful things for riesling around Canberra, charging this one with a bolt of acidity that looks set to sustain it for a long time. It’s a lively and backward style of crunchy granny smith apple, lime and white pepper, with long-lingering, fine, mineral structure drawn from limestone-containing red volcanic soils. $24 at Dan’s.