Mount Mary Réflexion Cabernet Blend

Never has Mount Mary declassified its flagship Quintet. Until 2009. If there is any influence of bushfire here, it is an exceedingly subtle wisp of smoke. The warm, dry conditions of the season clearly did not stress cabernet and its friends like they did pinot noir, and the result is a triumph for the vintage and an enjoyable, if earlier drinking, Quintet. Discounted by $100 a bottle, it’s a good buy. Impressive top notes of dried flowers and violets open into pure blackcurrant and cassis, against a backdrop of ripe blackberries, tobacco leaf and cigar box. A primary, almost juicy fruit intensity to the front palate quickly pulls into a harmonious, lingering finish of finely structured tannins and lively acidity. $39 at The Museum Wine Shop.