Introducing one of the finest wines yet to emerge from Mt Difficulty, one of just an handful of grande marques of New Zealand pinot noir. There is a purity and delicacy on display here in rose petal and violet perfume, sour red cherries, black cherries, underlined by the savoury complexity of brambles, sage and forest floor. It rides on a silky smooth, delightfully polished structure of ultra-fine tannins, with the grip and presence to hold forth for well beyond a decade. It took 48 hours to unravel, and when it did, the line and length on display were something to behold. Patience. $83 at Cellar d’Or.