Ninth Island Pinot Noir

This wine exemplifies the adage that opportunity comes out of adversity, and I can only guess that some serious declassification from Pipers Brook’s more senior pinot noirs has lifted its lowest tier wine in this challenging season. If elegance is to be prized above impact, this is a remarkable pinot for the price. It’s unashamedly light- to medium-bodied, yet anything it lacks in weight it more than compensates for in refinement and exactness of pink pepper, fragrant rose hip, strawberry, red cherry and raspberry nuances of impressive line and carry. Charged with tangy acidity and beautifully textured, finely structured tannins, this is the perfect summer lunchtime red. Drink it as you might Beaujolais. $17 at WineStar.