O’Leary’s portfolio is the bargain benchmark of the Clare but its flagship sets the standard for rock-solid consistency at the top end like no other. This is no showstopper, making its statement not by impact and power, ripeness, structure or oak, but by remarkable poise, vibrancy and complexity. Its century-old vines speak in deep tones of black fruits, black pastilles, liquorice, black olives and pitch, propelled by impeccably handled dark chocolate oak. Tannins are seamlessly integrated, making it approachable right away, but with the firm, fine structure to age deceptively long. $75 at MyCellars.