O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling

The warm, dry 2013 season in Clare had the effect of concentrating the presence of flavour, acidity and phenolic structure, producing rieslings of intensity. In the right hands, these are even and harmonious wines of engaging appeal. O’Leary Walker has created one of the best value of this set, a pretty thing of kaffir lime zest and granny smith apples, with overtones of pepper. A well-defined spine of tense acidity and a fine chalk mineral texture confirm a great vintage for O’Leary Walker. $18 at Aussie Wines, Nillumbik Cellars and No Frills.