Paul Bara Special Club Rosé

Taming Bouzy’s extravagant fervour is an art of the highest order, and this wine is a case study in graceful strength. A monumental contrast of intensity and elegance, soaked in black cherries, pomegranate, pink pepper and pink grapefruit, pulled strictly into line by lively, taut malic acidity and well-defined chalk mineral grip. Restraint is achieved through a tiny addition of red wine, sufficient to build an impressive crimson hue. The result is enticingly generous and yet impeccably fine and fresh. A feisty enchantress. $160 at Bellevue Hill.