Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz

In a flight of the forty finest vintages of Bin 28 since 1963 in the Rewards of Patience tasting last year, the trilogy of 2008, 2009 and 2010 was the highlight. If 2008 was defined by richness and 2009 by restraint, 2010 unites the best of both worlds in magnificent concentration, within a framework of elegant structure. Its colour is monumentally deep, jet black with a narrow, vibrant purple rim. The palate slowly uncoils to reveal tremendous depth of succulent black plum, blackberry and liquorice, with a crunchy vibrancy and an air of violet perfume that hovers from start to finish, framed in delightfully poised tannins of commanding structure yet ultra-fine restraint. For the record, Barossa Valley (51%), McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Wrattonbully and Robe, aged in seasoned American oak. “This wine would do any Bin 28 back to 1959 proud,” Gago declared. It certainly did that day.