Bin 311 has taken a year of leave from the slopes of Tumbarumba to venture to the south-west Victorian region of Henty, and it’s shed a little of its sophistication in the move. Eighteen percent new French oak is a little more than usual for this label, but the original plantings of the Seppelt Drumborg vineyard have the fruit intensity to handle it. Taut grapefruit and lemon are the themes here, with overtones of complex, leesy, charcuterie character and a hint of bubblegum. A crisp acid backbone, fine grapefruit pith texture and cool 12.0% alcohol make for an attractive and restrained mouthfeel. The only wine in this release without a price rise – and just as well.