Penfolds Great Grandfather Rare Tawny

Not released with the Penfolds so-called ‘Icon and Prestige’ brigade, Great Grandfather seems to elude all launch events and fanfare, yet the sheer grandeur of this wine deserves equal reverence. For a wine to capture such dizzying complexity of maturity after some thirty years in the cellar and yet such fresh, lively energy is a profound contradiction in itself. More astonishing is its sheer persistence, lingering, quite literally, for minutes. $276 at Dan’s.