Far and away the standout of a new tier in the Petaluma range, this is an intricately crafted and great value chardonnay from one of South Australia’s most important pioneers of the variety. It’s clearly picked up some tricks from its older siblings, elegantly contrasting delicately fragrant lemon blossom and grapefruit flavours with the subtle complexity of struck flint. The lively acid line of 2011 underlines a beautifully textured mouth feel, while a component of malic acidity contributes a taut, incisive cut. It doesn’t have “White Label” on the label, but this is what to ask for. $19 at Cracka.