Peter Lehmann Hill & Valley Eden Valley Chardonnay

I adored the smashing inaugural 2011, even though the wizards at Lehmann received a few disturbed emails from those who found the reductive struck match and flint character to be too much. From a warmer season, the 2012 was never going to be its equal, even with the reductive complexity toned down. There’s still plenty of struck flint and charcuterie to spice up its grapefruit core. True to the season, there’s more power, well set with integrated oak, finely textural structure and good persistence. $18 at My Cellars and Red Bottle.