Peter Lehmann Stonewell Barossa Shiraz

Andrew Wigan likens 2009 to 1999: An underrated, unnoticed vintage, sandwiched between two great years. The effect is exacerbated by the sheer magnificence of 2010. 2009’s claim to fame is the first inclusion of Eden Valley fruit in Stonewell, contributing brightness and life. The Stonewell oak regime has been progressively downplayed for decades, and even further here, with less new French oak and less time in barrel. The result is an impressive Stonewell of poise and longevity. As always, it needs at least a decade to come together, and preferably two. An impressively full, vibrant purple hue, there’s great power and concentration on display here, packed with sweet plum and blueberry fruits, lifted with violet perfume and layered with liquorice, dark chocolate and hints of black olives. It’s framed neatly in finely structured, well poised tannins and vibrant, lively acidity, lingering with remarkable persistence. $70 at Canterbury Wines, Grays Online, WineStar, David Jones and Dan Murphy’s.