Peter Lehmann Wines Wigan Riesling

This is the first time in Wine Taste history that any wine under $45 has achieved such a breathtaking score. After a line of more than forty new release Eden Valley rieslings from the spectacular 2012 vintage, it is preposterous to imagine that anything from the lesser 2007 season could compare, let alone trump all before it as the finest wine in the room. But such is the effortless magnificence of Wigan. This is a wine of stark contrasts: a brilliant straw-green hue at more than five years of age; stunning concentration of preserved lemons, mixed spice, baked granny smith apple and luscious butter, yet utterly taut, mineral, pristine, tense and lemon-zest fresh. Its line and length take it to the next level: nothing less than profound. $25 at Kemenys, $26 at My Cellars.