Pewsey Vale The Contours Eden Valley Riesling

Contours is one of the great Australian mature release rieslings and 2008 one of the A-league, particularly youthful for its age. It’s all about citrus and stone fruits, holding impressive fruit poise in spite of its years, just beginning to hint at toasty nuttiness. Outstanding persistence and even, enduring intensity. $25 at The Glass and Sydney Wine Merchants.