Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvee Paradoxe 1er Cru

Gimonnet made no Paradoxe in 2005, 2009 or 2010, and, in refreshing honesty virtually unheard of in Champagne, Didier Gimonnet questions whether 2007 offered the structure or complexity to do justice to the style. It’s certainly a more immediate wine than usual for Gimonnet, more fruit-focused and without the typical complexity, structure or acid drive that make for longevity. As an earlier-drinking style, its expressive red cherry, strawberry and mixed spice are enticing. $53 at 1st Choice.