In response to overseas demand, Gimonnet made a champagne with no added sugar. Rather than creating a cuvée for the purpose, Didier Gimonnet instead chooses the cuvée from the year with the best balance to stand without dosage (currently Fleuron 2005). He admits he always prefers the wine with dosage – no surprise. “Champagne without sugar is like a woman without make up!” in his words. The result here is wonderfully toasty and filled with roast nuts, vanilla and nutmeg, but he finish is taut, dry and a little angular. Not available in Australia, and we’re no worse off without it.