Pierre Péters Cuvée Spéciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chétillons

Les Chétillons 2004 articulates its mineral birthplace with greater expression than I have tasted anywhere in Champagne outside the thundering single vineyards of Krug itself. Two years after release, perfectly honed lemon zest and preserved lemon are transfixed in time like an ice man, supported by a slowly rising undercurrent of honey, brioche and nougat, accented with notes of gun smoke and oyster shells. Salty, chalky minerality rises like a tidal wave above it all, filling the mouth with strength and texture, but at every moment dizzyingly fine, silky and caressing. This infuses the palate with focused linearity and an inherent internal harmony, lacing everything together with gripping persistence. To achieve such confident fruit persona and mineral expression in a season as high-yielding as this only adds to the intrigue of one of the greatest expressions of 2004 yet released. $130 at Prince Wine Store.