Pizzini Pinot Grigio

Tight, taut and truly grigio, this is a nervy style defined by the cool heights of the King Valley. With a cut of fresh lemon, a whiff of lemon blossom and a note of flint, it’s got the searing structure to stand in for champagne as an aperitif, or to wait in the cellar to build spicy depth. $19 at Dan’s.