“My philosophy when it comes to choosing a vineyard is that if it’s made sparkling base, I want it! You can’t beat natural acidity!” With such a mandate, it’s no surprise that Sam Coverdale’s top chardonnay is sourced from the Mornington’s highest vineyard. The result is an exciting wine of focus and tightly honed restraint, yet still portraying the intensity that defined the Mornington Peninsula in 2010. Taut lemon zest and crunchy white peach meet lifted lemon blossom and spicy fig, pulling into a long, honed tail of lemon zest acidity. The texture is akin to finely ground glass, perhaps because the vines have reached the quartz below? $46 direct.