Port Phillip Estate Chardonnay

The cool 2011 season has produced an outstanding Port Phillip Estate Chardonnay of structural energy, focus and texture. Diligent vineyard attention did away with any hint of rot, leaving pristine fruit of expressive white nectarine character, taut grapefruit focus and wonderfully vibrant acidity. Wild fermentation, maturation on lees and a light touch of new French oak have built impressive, lingering textural structure and hints of complexity reminiscent of charcuterie. $28 at WineStar, Cloudwine, Hunt for Wine and Wine Box Warehouse.