Primo Estate Joseph Moda McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot

In 25 years of Moda, 2012 is set to go down among the greatest and longest-lived. The power and concentration on parade here are monumental, a towering structure of looming grandeur and yet simultaneously graceful and streamlined, impeccably scaffolded by firm, fine, dusty, tightly strung tannins and lively fruit vibrancy. Such a paradox is only achieved using the amarone method, in which cabernet fruit is semi-dried prior to fermentation, here freshened with 20% undried merlot. It will live very long. $60 at Ciscount Wines, Flaggstaff Cellars and Boccaccio (2011), $80 direct (2012).