Rob Dolan Pinot Gris

Rob Dolan’s ambition is to create a gris of textural structure, which he achieves through skin contact, partial fermentation in oak and lots of agitation of the lees (dead yeast cells) after fermentation. The result has a lot more appeal (and a lot more colour) that you’d expect from gris, particularly from vines grafted just three vintages ago. Gris’ hallmarks of poached pear and grapefruit are structured with a refined textural backbone. It’s bone dry, but its fruit richness provides a balanced, rounded generosity. $25 at Emmanuel’s Wine Shop.