Salon Cuvée S Blanc de Blancs

The warm and sunny 1999 vintage blesses Salon with a suggestion of generous accessibility, while resolutely upholding its incisive youthfulness, exceedingly backward for its age, even towards the end of its release cycle. It has followed a gentle curve of evolution at the pace of a giant sea turtle since it was first unleashed on the world two years ago, settling comfortably into a place of calm and intricate precision. Delightful lemon freshness is held in suspended animation at a full 14 years of age, only beginning to evolve into preserved lemon and white peach. A youthful whiff of reduction has become a charming note of struck flint. Almond, nougat, vanilla and brioche tell the story of more than a decade in the cellar, with soft suggestions of smoke and dried fig hinting at what is yet to come. Its structure is a revelation, with very fine chalk minerality integrating softly, then rising on the finish to mouthembracing mineral texture that personifies Le Mesnil. The characteristic poise of Salon triumphs, retaining light-footed restraint and delicacy even in a powerfully concentrated season, promising at least another decade of life. $450 at Wineaway.