Paul Scorpo speaks of a more pronounced sense of place in his wines as his vines gain maturity. There’s no question that the undercurrent of chalky mineral structure that underlines his pinot noir is strengthening, rising to a crescendo in 2010, the vintage he names as the most naturally balanced and best quality in the vineyard yet. Unfiltered for the first time, this is a wine of pristine precision, restrained black cherry, cherry kernel and rose petal allusions. The winemaking wizardry of Sandro Moselle (Kooyong) massages a finely textured structure of well-gauged, firm tannins that promise a long future. $37 at WineStar and Canterbury Wines.