Shaw + Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay

After a tiny production in the difficult 2011 season, M3 is back up to racing spec in the great 2012 vintage. An enticing bouquet captures the fragrance of lemon blossom, the freshness of grapefruit pulp, the depth of white peach, the complexity of mixed spice and the exoticism of fresh fig. The palate is intricately crafted, with cool, fine lemon juice freshness, creamy notes from partial malolactic fermentation and beautifully fine texture from wild yeast fermentation and extended lees ageing in French oak barrels. One of the great M3s and a delightful drink. $33 at Bellevue Hill Bottle Shop.