I go to great lengths to give red wines of greatness every chance to reveal themselves: double decanting, an assessment on the spot, a retaste half a day later and again the following day. On opening, this mataro shiraz blend showcased polished black fruits within a rustic, brittle tannin exoskeleton of firm, mouth-filling, earthy mataro tannins. Half a day later, little had changed, and it was not until the next day that its true personality finally began to unravel: deep, alluring and well-defined black cherry and sweet black plum and blackberry fruits, nuanced with cola, liquorice and high cocoa dark chocolate. Don’t rush it. $47 at Purvis.