It perplexes me that a wine of average age twenty-five years can sell at a price which, by world standards, is no more than tiny. After a generation in a solera of small barrels, it has concentrated down to an incredibly dark, dense and viscous thing, decadently thick, potently concentrated, lusciously sweet and mind-blowingly persistent. You name it, this wine has got it, loaded with caramel, dark chocolate, marmalade, apricot jam, dried figs, raisins and Christmas spices, yet finishing with sufficient acidity to keep everything under control, providing grip, structure and texture.