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Starlite Pinot Noir Chardonnay

The ever-enterprising Bert Werden (WineStar) has sourced a fizz from one of the names that you and I love on the Mornington Peninsula and thrown it up at $10 less than you’d expect to pay for the real thing. The result is a bottle of bubbles with a lot more concentration and fruit persistence than you’d anticipate for $15 (WineStar). There’s more complexity and age, too. A tension between the taut, cool, fresh lemon zest acidity of high-tensile structure, toasty development and honeyed sweetness plays out, with the acidity ultimately winning on a tense, refreshing finish.